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Coco Chanel, No. 5 & History's Scent

The wild history of Chanel No. 5, queen of perfumes, and the life of Coco Chanel – from convents to Nazis to jasmine and rose petals.

Gabriel "Coco" Chanel in her studio above her Paris salon, April 21, 1954. (AP)

We see style as a signifier of a moment in time, a cultural era.  Same for artworks, for cuisine and changing tastes, for the music that reaches our ears.  What about scent?

For a big chunk of the last century, the single most celebrated creation in the scent world has come in a bottle labeled Chanel No. 5.

As a cultural artifact, it’s loaded.  With jasmine, rose petal, musk.  With Madison Avenue and Marilyn Monroe.  With orphanage, czarina, convent laundry, Moulin Rouge, Nazis, and American GIs coming home from war.

The story of Coco Chanel and Chanel No. 5.

- Tom Ashbrook

Guests:

Tilar Mazzeo, professor of English at Colby College and author of The Secret of Chanel No. 5: The Intimate History of the World’s Most Famous Perfume. You can read an excerpt.

Tania Sanchez, perfume critic and co-author, with Luca Turin, of Perfumes: The A-Z Guide.

 
  • Holly

    Why was the term mistress used in the description of this accomplished woman during the promos for this show? Seems rather sexist. If you were doing a promo for a show on JFK would you have opened by describing him as a lothario?

  • Jemimah

    I have the most vivid memory of my glamorous mother (imagine January Jones in MadMen) getting ready to go out and adding Chanel No. 5 as her final touch. Nowadays I wear it and it’s still my fave, but I feel like the scent has changed, become less delicate and sensual. Have they changed the formula, or is it just me?!

  • Charles A. Bowsher

    In the future please figure out some way to make your shows such as this scratch-n-sniff. I may be listening, but I would much rather be smelling todays show. Alas, there is no Chanel no.5 in my home….

  • ThresherK

    Can we have someone address intellectual property and scents? I know that Coca-Cola’s secret ingredient is not patented, as patents run out. What is it like in the perfume industry?

    (And, please, more Chevalier!)

  • Isernia

    Amherst, NY
    What a coincidence…last night I started watching the film Coco Chanel & Igor Stravinsky (Cannes Film Festival, 2009). The opening scene of the l9l3 Parisian riots over Stravinsky’s RITES OF SPRING captured my interest for just a short time. The opera/ballet audience then was pre-WWI rich, aristocratic –the buyers of Chanel # 5. This perfume, as well as her clothing designs, have not made it into this century’s popular market. Too many CLONES perfume and suit “on the racks” to warrant buying the expensive REAL thing.
    Besides, young people do not seem to wear perfume of any kind…at least from my observation.

  • Longfeather

    Either Channel 19 or 22 reminds me of my Tiny Tears Baby Doll, I suppose it was the outgasing, but OK by me.

    Running for my life in D.C. dipped in to Garfinkles and had to strangle person getting ready to spray me, I thought, in other words I became inchoate. Rushed back to right corner, rather located it around other things, and held self up on counter. Pulled myself together. An audience there, very quiet when I looked up, man and woman, both in black. Heads nodded, Owl looks. What was on offer, a perfume, ‘Metal’ Smell only, not on. ‘Oh, its like my bridle and shiny too, very shiny.” The man in suits eyes shifted to the lady beside. Well, we introduce it today, designed after the seats and chrome grille of my car. I am PocoRabane.
    I didn’t know I knew about these things.
    What are you favorites, he asked me, (This is between us, and there was a little Le Dix” Viva La France and the Alsace.

  • BHA – Vermont

    “make your shows such as this scratch-n-sniff”

    I am quite glad this is not possible.

    Many people are adversely affected by fragrances. My 17 Y/O daughter is close to being disabled because many fragrances give her an instant migraine. One huge culprit: Purell. Many are unknown, but as far as we can tell, it is only (wo)man made fragrances, not those from things like flowers.

    Purell affects me similarly though not as bad or quickly. But I recognized 40 years ago that I had an immediate migraine any time my step-sister wore ‘Tabu’.

    The same is true of scented candles and other items in the grocery store. I can no longer breathe on the laundry detergent aisle – hold breath and HURRY.

    And we are not alone. I went to the far register at Bed, Bath and Beyond and waited in line. An employee told me there was one open with no line. I informed him I could NOT stand anywhere near the Yankee Candle display, they give me instant migraines. The lady in front of me said “Me too”

    So, please ask your guest if there is anyone doing research on what it is in man made fragrances that slam some of us into bed for hours or days.

  • http://lizzyclara.etsy.com Dale Coykendall

    Hi Tom ! My mother wore Chanel No 5… I was so shy when young,dreaded an upcoming doctor’s checkup… hoped my mom had forgotten and I came in from school recess and knew in one elegant sniff that she was there to pick me up !!! Keep up the amazing work Kind Regards ! Dale

  • Anne

    Guys…it’s just marketing. Can you address the argument that this obsession with the perfume is a lot more about marketing and a lot less about the product itself? It plays to people’s sort of bourgeoisie hopes for elegance you can buy instead of … embody?

  • Anne

    Mean to say, am on Cape Cod, Mass.

  • Anne Saplin

    Morning,

    I was not a Chanel fan but wore Miss Dior and then Halston. I stopped wearing fragrance when 1) a friend said that the Halston smelled like cat tinkle and 2) I read that the Japanese believe that perfume invades another’s space, which certainly is true. Think of fragrance, men’s or women’s, lingering in your office long after they’ve departed.

    The only good thing about being unemployed is that I can listed to your show regularly. Thanks!

    AS

  • Cheryle Reidel

    I received my first bottle of Chanel #5 as a sophmore in high school from my new boyfriend. What a sensation with all the other girls. Very classy and I’ve been wearing it ever since – 40 years later. And yes, I’m still getting it from the same guy – my husband of 37 years.

  • Ralph Bell

    Please discuss the design of the bottle and label.
    R. Bell, Savannah, GA

  • BHA – Vermont

    “Besides, young people do not seem to wear perfume of any kind…at least from my observation.”

    Thank goodness. Sorry to dump on everyone’s love of fragrance but I have to relate another story:

    Sitting in my office, not a cubicle, working away. Some woman walked by, I did not see her. Seconds later I caught the odor of her perfume and my head exploded with a migraine. I wasn’t sure if I could make it to the bathroom to throw up. Managed not to heave, closed the door, turned off the light and laid on the floor for 3 hours until I figured I could manage to drive home. Spent the next 12 hours in bed in the dark with my head in a vise.

  • Anne Saplin

    Iguess I’m another Anne who forgot to indicate home town–I listen on WRNI, Providence, live in Kingston RI. –AS

  • http://cjzurcher.com chris zurcher

    Wet blanket writing from New Haven. I’m sometimes amazed at what makes it onto national public radio. this program followed a program about the revolution in tunisia. people are being killed all over the middle east. The LAST thing on their minds is perfume and cologne. floods are destroying huge numbers of homes and killing hundreds of thousands of people around the world — australia, brazil, columbia, pakistan, more and more and more. The LAST thing on these people’s minds is perfume. People are actually calling in saying they get compliments on how they smell! They don’t smell! It’s the perfume they put on their skin that smells! If they didn’t put the perfume on, I doubt they’d get passing compliments on their smell. Absurd and almost disgraceful considering the how many more important things people, especially in this country — Chanel-ized or not — should be discussing and listening to on the radio.

  • Lonfeather

    Ann from Cape Cod probably is of no belief in anecdotes, therefore there is no antidote. Sounds like FDA and other modified scents still lingering on the Potomac. No hope for those who don’t hear and pass on the dope.

  • BHA

    I apologize for harping on this, you can tell it is a significant impact:

    The US Centers for Disease Control recognizes fragrance as a health hazard. There are over 15,000 employees and their work places are 100% fragrance free.

    From the following link:

    Personal care products (e.g. colognes, perfumes, essential oils, scented skin and hair products) should not be applied at or near actual workstations, restrooms, or anywhere in CDC owned or leased buildings.

    In addition, CDC encourages employees to be as fragrance-free as possible when they arrive in the workplace. Fragrance is not appropriate for a professional work environment, and the use of some products with fragrance may be detrimental to the health of workers with chemical sensitivities, allergies, asthma, and chronic headaches/migraines.

    Employees should avoid using scented detergents and fabric softeners on clothes worn to the office. Many fragrance-free personal care and laundry products are easily available and provide safer alternatives.

    http://www.thecanaryreport.org/2010/04/07/centers-for-disease-control/

  • John

    There is always some crisis going on in the world. The first hour was on the news. Even a seemingly frivolous topic like perfume can be interesting as it is also about a female entrepreneur, her actions in WWII, etc.

  • BHA – Vermont

    Chris – I disagree. I actually talked to Tom at a VPR picnic a couple of years ago about this very thing.

    We can’t ONLY hear about the death and destruction all around us. It is nice to have a the occasional ‘light’ story/discussion to balance all the ‘more important’ issues we have to deal with.

  • Longfeather

    Charleston, during McCarthy hearings, I downed bottle of perfume, like Russian drinking vodka. Mom smelled me and called for help. Pump Pump Pump. My start as hydrologist.

  • Webb Nichols

    Why do women accept smelling like all other women who wear Chanel No. 5?

  • donald

    #5, being an older formulation–is it free of the toxins and carcinogens that are allowed, but not disclosed, in modern fragrances?

  • Pat

    Dought Channel was sold in military commissary. Commissaries sell food. Channel would have been sold in an Army BX (Base Exchange) which sell cloths, magizines, jewlrey, candy, etc.

  • Kelly

    Chanel’s largest item to date is the No. 5 perfume. Even during World War II, Chanel’s perfume was still notable despite the lack of drive to maintain high fashion standards.

    Chanel No. 5 was introduced in 1922. Chanel was the first fashion designer to have her name on a perfume. There are many reasons why her perfume was named No. 5. Five was her lucky number. Her fall and summer collections fell on the fifth of August and February. No. 5 and CC can be seen in the chandelier in her house on 31 Rue Cambon, Paris. No. 5 impacted the perfume industry. Chanel introduced the first square perfume bottle. Ernest Beaux, her first lover, helped create Chanel’s classic perfume. “I want to make it the world’s most expensive perfume.” (Madsen) There was a story that every time Chanel walked by the Ritz on her way home, the bell hop would call her apartment. Then the guards would send someone up to the modern apartment to spray No. 5 everywhere. Fitting rooms were also atomized with the scent. If women were unable to dress elegantly, they made sure they smelled attractive

  • Alex

    I went to college in the northern coast of Colombia, South America. I have a vivid memory of one of my professor who wore No. 5. She was about 40 years old. The class I took with her was at 2pm when it’s really hot there. When she entered the room it was this fragrance that made me think of freshness in the middle of the hot weather, also a feeling of being with her sexually for it was so sensual. I’ll never forget the smell and it will always reminds me of her

  • http://www.flamencobuzz.com Mari

    The formula IS changed!!! I have an antique bottle of lovely No 5 but the modern stuff is horrible,it’s chemical smelling and cloying!

    I found a bottle at the Goodwill Store across from Bur last Summer without a label. I knew it was No5 from the cap which had an intertwined CC. It was $5.00 and it was antique No. 5

    I am in heaven and will keep this and use it sparingly until I die.

  • Sheryl

    I am curious about how the perfume ages. One of the guests described wearing a recent sample on one wrist and an older sample on the other. Does the scent change over time or is it stable?

  • Charles A. Bowsher

    BHA @ 11:24 You wouldn’t have to scratch.

  • gus

    http://www.cosmeticsdatabase.com/product/130609/Chanel_No_5_Eau_De_Toilette/ lists some of the ingredients in Chanel #5 toilet water.

  • Sylvia Connor

    In 1976 my husband took a sabbatical to Orange, France.One day after walking my son to the Ecole Maternelle, I went to the town’s shops even though the Mistral was blowing. I went into a small Perfumerie as I have always loved scents. From listening to your guest I now know that I was accepted as she gave me a tiny bottle of Chanel #19. She must have known I was the one American in the town from my college French,but she did not give me Chanel #5.

  • Yar From Somerset, KY

    Notice that most descriptions in the comments here are closely associated with visual imagery. Smell is a powerful visual trigger. Every physical sensation from nausea to arousal are enhanced or triggered through smell.
    As for perfume, I love it when I don’t think perfume. Any smell on the body that is identifiable is too strong for me. I know I am attracted to some odors, but once they become identifiably they lose their power and often become objectionable.

  • Longfeather

    Walter Freeman, UCLA, would tell you smell travels, pauses, decides, pulls strings on facial muscles, pulls strings everywhere, then, if you are very lucky, strings disappear, you lift your hands up and dance w/joy, or….oxytosin—reach for a partner to twirl with…or put hands on shoulders of friends and neighbors, and kick up a Dauphuskie. Let’s be very clear and subtle about this prime mover.

  • fmcaree

    what is the name of the yves montand song you play at the end of the chanel segment.
    fm

  • Joanie in Middle Mass.

    Oh…wouldn’t this have been wonderful as a scratch-n-sniff show~

  • christine

    What a great program!

    I have just received “Coco Before Chanel” (2009) via Netflix and now I can’t wait to watch!

    Question: I love the description of Chanel 5, but is it safe for those of us who are sensitive to chemicals and artificial fragrances in perfumes and colognes? I would love to give a try…

  • Patricia

    As someone who suffers from allergies and multiple chemical sensitivity syndrome, I can’t believe you produced a show on perfume.

    The chemicals in Chanel #5 give it an 8 rating (out of 10) for toxicity on the Environmental Working Group Skin Deep database.

    http://www.cosmeticsdatabase.com/product/130609/Chanel_No_5_Eau_De_Toilette/

    Many perfumes contain pthlates (a known endocrine disruptor), neurotoxins, formaldahyde, tolene, and other chemicals that can leave many people not feeling romantic or nostalgic for WWII, but sick. When I’m around perfume (synthetic) I feel like vomiting. My eyes tear up, my throat burns, and I get migraines so I guess I have nothing positive to say about Chanel anything. I won’t go near a perfume counter and if someone sprayed me from toe to head with synthetic perfume, good chance I would go into convulsions or die.

    BTW why are you celebrating a woman that collaborated with the Nazis? And did you know Maurice Chevalier, who you so casually and nostalgically played on your show, was also a Nazi collaborator? I guess that takes some of the charm out of it.

    I realize that you want to produce light and entertaining shows to cut the edge off the more serious shows, give your listeners a break, but perfume is a contentious issue these days. It’s harmful just like secondhand smoke. I hope you don’t do a show waxing nostalgia about Virginia Slims.

  • Patricia

    To Christine who asked if Chanel 5 is safe for sensitive people. No, it is not.

  • Brett

    People who wear perfume/cologne are committing a similar offense as cigarette smokers in public.

  • Alison

    I rather wear Chanel No. 5 than smoke. I don’t understand all the negative comments. I agree with the other posts, you cannot have programs only about death and destruction.

    Wearing a fragrance is a personal decision of course. But I like the way a quality perfume smells. I formed a taste for quality perfumes at an early age. I ditched the Avon for the likes of Anais Anais and Estee Lauder and never went back. My twin sister’s favorite was Chanel No. 5. Mine was and still is Anais Anais. It may not give me confidence, but I sure like the way I smell!

  • Brett

    “Wearing a fragrance is a personal decision of course.” Allison

    Not when its contents negatively impact people with asthma, allergies, emphysema, etc. It has real consequences for people other than the wearer.

  • Alison

    Brett,
    Unfortunately you are assuming that every person, male or female who wears a fragrance is negatively impacting everyone. I’ve never once been asked to leave a room or not to wear my fragrance. I’ve never had one person excuse themselves from my company. I think what is missing from this conversation is this: there is no credible evidence of wholsesale fragrance assault on those who are affected. If that were the case, I don’t doubt that there would be quality of life laws and/or ordinances to affecting the use of perfumes.

    When I began working at my current employer, I was not aware that a person in our office had a sensitivity to frangrance. When it came to my knowledge I apologized to that person and inquired if my perfume bothered her. She answered “No”, “I did not know you were wearing any”.

    I continued to wear my fragrance and never received a complaint while in her company, sitting next to her, in the ladies room etc.

    Just a side note, my name is “Alison” one “l”

    Thanks

  • Brett

    Alison,

    Sorry for the two l’s. Individually, you sound like a very considerate person. I have asthma and am very affected by colognes and perfumes. Some people wear very little fragrance which is undetectable unless in very intimate situations. Others can be discerned by their fragrance thirty feet away, and one can smell their presence twenty minutes after they’ve left the room. Many churches, businesses, etc., do ask that perfumes and colognes be kept in check for reasons of not impacting others, so there is something to it. I, for example, will have an attack being around some colognes and perfumes and can spend a couple of days being sick from them; and, some people have been very understanding in terms of my situation, others have not. I won’t show patronage to certain restaurants/social places because they have scented candles on the tables/use scented cleaning chemicals/have plug air fresheners. I guess I really am just saying for people to be sensitive to those of us who have health-related sensitivities to fragrances, in general.

  • Frankie

    I did not listen to the show but I also have a sensitivity to fragrances. Most perfumes give me a migraine. After Christmas is the worst time of year for me, because everyone is dousing on their new perfumes/colognes. It is an extremely uncomfortable situation to tell someone that their perfume or scented candle is bothering you. I have received hostile reactions from co-workers. Please, those of you who wear perfume, save it for special occasions, and then wear it in very small amounts.

  • BHA – Vermont

    Unfortunately you are assuming that every person, male or female who wears a fragrance is negatively impacting everyone.

    I think what is missing from this conversation is this: there is no credible evidence of wholesale fragrance assault on those who are affected. If that were the case, I don’t doubt that there would be quality of life laws and/or ordinances to affecting the use of perfumes.

    Posted by Alison, on January 24th, 2011 at 1:28 PM

    Late coming back in here and this post will probably never seen, but I had to respond to this.

    “Impacting everyone” – no one said EVERYONE has Multiple Chemical Sensitivities.

    The point is you may VERY WELL be impacting SOMEONE. Just because they don’t say something to you doesn’t mean it isn’t happening. Especially in an “in passing” setting as opposed to a work area. People are unlikely to accost you verbally when your fragrance accosts them silently. It isn’t like you would go wash it off if someone made a comment so we just try not to breathe near you. Plus, in those who are severely sensitive, like my daughter, it is too late anyway, the migraine has already hit as soon as the odor wafts up her nose. What is the value of mentioning it to a stranger who likely wouldn’t care anyway?

    My daughter wrote a paper for school last year titled “Migraine, the invisible disability”. It can’t be seen, no one can judge the severity of your pain by looking at you. And people like Alison seem to believe: “there is no credible evidence of wholesale fragrance assault on those who are affected.” Clearly you speak without knowledge or research.

    And then you add: “If that were the case, I don’t doubt that there would be quality of life laws and/or ordinances to affecting the use of perfumes. ”

    Read my post regarding the CDC.

  • http://www.beautyepros.com coco mademoiselle

    Chanel No. 5: the eternal feminine interpretation of the classic, personalized products: do not make an effort to reproduce the scent of flowers!

  • Anonymous

     I have worn Chanel 5 since I was 21 and stopped for a while.  Bought a couple of new bottles and the SCENT HAS CHANGED.  Why did they change the formula of this “sacred scent.” I know the scent as well as I know my own face and when I used it, it was not the one I used to use.

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